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Before
you Start:
The first thing you will
want to do is to look for references (photos, history,
etc) about the model you are going to build. Next, read
the instructions and give special attention to the assembly
sequence. Decide about the color scheme, markings, details,
time period and modifications needed to accomodate a
special version of the model. Consider how will you display
your model when finished. Make a list of the materials
you will need: paint, cement, decal setting solution,
thinner and tools.
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Initial Assembly:
You will normally start
your model by building the interior, concentrating on
the interior details like the cockpit seat(s), control
yoke(s), and instrument panels. Most experience modelers
give special attention to the cockpit details by looking
at photographs from the actual airplane and using a magnifying
glass to add extensive detail to the instrument panels
dials and other components in the cockpit.
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Reference material
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Fuselage Construction,
Seaming and Sanding:
To cut the parts loose
from the sprue make use of a hobby knife, it is not recommended
to break the parts loose because they can eventually
get damage. Large fuselage parts can be glued and temporarily
kept together using clamps or rubber bands. Use sand
paper to fix irregularities on the plastic joints.
If you want smooth finish
try using wet sand paper. Look for sand paper with a
high grit number (150 through 300 grit), the higher the
grit the smoother the paper and the finer the finish
results. When sanding you have to be careful not to damage
the raised panel lines on the model. If you do, you can
restore them by using a metal scale ruler and a sharp
knive. An excelent tool for polishing, fixing irregularities
and making adaptations to a model is the Hand-held miniature
drill "Dremel" tool.
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F-4 Phantom Cockpit
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Priming and Painting:
After seaming and sanding the model you are ready to prepare it for
painting. First you must apply a coat of primer to reveal
any imperfections or gaps on the fuselage. After the
problems are fixed, a second coat of primer should be
applied to the model. The landing gears, propellers,
windscreens, or other small components should be prepared
and painted separate before installing them to the model.
If you are planning to add some weathering effects, you can start for
example by adding a coat of silver paint to the front
edges of the wings, and later using the final paint coat
simulate paint wear.
After your model is painted, make sure not to apply a clear lacquer
overcoat until you have finish applying the decals. A
dull coat will prevent the decals from adhering correctly
to the surface of your model.
The model can be painted using a brush or an airbrush. Best results
come from using the airbrush, the finished surface looks
smoother and with less imperfections.
If your painting scheme involves camouflage; you can start by outlining
the camouflage pattern with a pencil on the surfaces
of the model. Then you will proceed to use an airbrush
to paint your model following the patterns.
You can also use tape in some painting schemes to separate areas of
the fuselage or create patterns.
In painting the clear plastic components of the cockpit, it is recommended
to use clear tape and cut the surplus tape with a knive
and then apply the paint.
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Paints and Finishing Material |
| Applying Decals:
Most
decals are water-activated, they are fragil and easy
to damage, especially if you do not handle them carefully.
It is recommended to use a decal ssetting solution
to help the decal adhere to the surface of the model.
Remember that most model surfaces are irregular and
contain details. Decals are designed to be applied
over smooth surfaces.
If
you have used flat paint on your model, before applying
the decals, you must spray your entire model with a
coat of clear gloss. This coat will smooth out the
surface of the model helping the decals adhere better.
Use
a scissor to cut out the decal your are going to apply
first. Dip the decal in water for about 15 to 25 seconds.
This time will be in most cases enough to let the adhesive
release from the backing paper. To make sure the decal
is ready, try to slide it with the point of your finger
from the backing paper, it should slide easily.
Apply
the decal to your model using a small brush to help
remove the excess water. Use a piece of tissue to help
remove the water from the area around the decal. Clean
the thin milky fluid residue around the decal using
the piece of tissue.
Brush a light coat of
decal setting (solvent) solution while the decal is
still wet. Do not use to much solvent, it may desintegrate
the decal.
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F-100
Super Sabre
(in scale 1/72)

P-40
(in scale 1/72)
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| Finishing Your
Model:
After the model is dry,
all the decals applied; verify that everything looks "perfect".
Take a look at the reference photographs (its always
a good idea to find a photograph of the airplane that
you are building, try to stay as close as possible
to every detail), instructions, check for any small
parts that you may have overlooked, and check all the
details.
Now is time to cover all
the clear windows with masking tape and spry a coat
of flat or glossy finish. Most of the time one
coat will do it. If you feel like your model needs
another coat, let the first one dry completely.
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| TIP:Try not to handle your model until it is
dry or you will leave undesired fingerprints all over it. |
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| ANOTHER TIP: Try not to apply more than two
coats of flat finish. |
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| When Should I apply Flat or glossy finishes? I
have my own rule, most of the time I used flat finish for
World War I or II airplanes and glossy for modern airplanes.
Remembe that many fighter airplanes are actually simonized
to improve aerodynamics. |
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